Tag: tea

  • The Earl Grey Year Part 1: Four Classics

    The Earl Grey Year Part 1: Four Classics

    Welcome to a 25-part blog series in which I review (kind of) 100 different Earl Grey teas over the course of 2024. I wanted to do a big tea-based project, and ultimately, drinking a range of Earl Greys seemed like the best bet. 100 different Earl Grey teas is a lot, but really, I have to drink less than 10 a month, and if you knew how much tea I drank on the regular, you would realize that’s a perfectly reasonable challenge. Earl Grey is also a tea that doesn’t necessarily need milk or sweetener. It’s versatile, bright, and honestly, was a tea that took me a while to like. So challenging myself to really go deep into this style of tea seems like a fun way to develop my palate.

    Each post will consist of four sections: a discussion of four teas I’ve tried, grouped by category, and then a breakdown of my progress on the tasting journey, including charts that show what I’ve drank across categories. I hope you enjoy this tea journey as much as I do!

    Four Classics Earl Grey Teas


    I define Classic Earl Grey as containing only two things: black tea and bergamot. Of course, there are a number of Earl Grey variations, and I have set up categories for those. For this initial post, though, I want to focus on four versions of the standard blend.

    Eastside Earl Grey – The Steeping Room, Austin, TX

    Eastside Earl Grey is at a distinct advantage, as it’s a long-established favorite. In fact, when I first tried Earl Grey back in 2006, I hated it. It actually made me throw up! It wasn’t until 2022, when I made an Earl Grey ice cream pie, that I tried the tea again. I went to The Steeping Room to buy their Eastside Earl Grey because I wanted to use quality tea as part of my pie. The pie was delicious, but with all the cream and sugar in the pie, I wasn’t sure I really loved the tea, or if the parts I disliked were mitigated. Of course, there was plenty left over, so rather than waste it, I started brewing it. To my surprise, I couldn’t get enough. I was finally an Earl Grey convert.

    The Eastside Earl Grey uses real Italian bergamot, and I think both the real and the Italian make a difference. I understand why some tea companies make the decision to use artificial bergamot. But the way mashed potatoes from scratch are more satisfying than mashed potatoes from a box, real bergamot makes a better impression than artificial. Sure, there is a time and place for boxed mashed potatoes; in fact, they might scratch a sentimental itch. And there is a time and place to use artificial bergamot. But tasting an Earl Grey that uses a real bergamot was a game–changer.

    Ultimately, this tea holds such a special place in my heart that it will be tough for any other Earl Grey to compare. This was the first tea I drank in 2024, and though it’s a familiar cup for my palate, it always tastes fresh.

    Earl Grey Classic – Fortnum & Mason, London

    It feels sacreligious to say that I didn’t like this blend. Fortnum & Mason is a legend. The bergamot smell was strong on the dry leaves, but I wrote in my tea journal, “It feels like as soon as the water hits the leaves, the bergamot washes away.” Of course, that’s not literally true. Otherwise there would be at least one cup with an overwhelming hit of bergamot. Certainly, though, that was how it felt over the course of drinking six cups of it, hoping that I would find something to like. But infusion after infusion, I couldn’t taste the bergamot once it was steeped. 

    Fortnum & Mason doesn’t specify on their website what kind of bergamot. The ingredients for this blend are “Tea, Flavouring.” (I admit that I love the simplicity.) Since it’s not specific, it’s tough for me to point to a specific reason why this tea didn’t work for me. I did also note how small the leaves were. Compared to the Eastside Earl Grey, which has big, full leaves (see, I told you this was the standard), these were tiny, and just didn’t look visually appealing either dry or wet. Again, there are no specifics about the tea, so it’s tough for me to make a definitive statement, but it certainly didn’t help things. 

    (Don’t worry, I had a much better experience with Fortnum’s Smoky Earl Grey, but that’s a topic for another post.)

    Earl Grey Organic – Tea Market, Kansas City, MO

    I appreciate that Tea Market includes the specific teas included in this blend. There are three black teas in this Earl Grey: Assam, Ceylon, and Nilgiri. In addition, they use Turkish bergamot instead of Italian. I tried to do some research on the differences between Turkish and Italian bergamot. Reading some scientific abstracts online, there are definitely some differences in the various chemical compounds. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get access to the full articles, so all I could discern is that Turkish and Italian bergamot are not exactly the same. But this is only the first post of the year, and I am confident that eventually, I can probably get access to some quality scientific information. 

    Like the Eastside Earl Grey, I found this blend to be incredibly well-balanced. I felt that the bergamot was more subtle than the Eastside Earl Grey. I’m not sure if that’s because of the specific chemical components of Turkish bergamot, or something specific to my palate. While I prefer a bolder level of bergamot, ultimately, this was still an enjoyable Earl Grey that I would drink again. 

    I find that there are two types of people who are resistant to traditional Earl Grey: those who do not like black tea, and those who do not like bergamot. For someone who is skeptical of Earl Grey and knows they don’t love bergamot, this might be a good one for them to try. It’s a great example of a bergamot that is flavorful without being aggressive. This could easily be a tea that converts someone to Earl Grey.

    Earl Grey – Artful Tea, Santa Fe, NM

    The kind folks at Artful Tea sent me samples of all four of their Earl Grey blends. Thanks to Karen and the team for supporting this project!

    The classic Earl Grey from Artful Tea is similar in balance to the version from Tea Market, in that the bergamot is subtle, but the black tea is not overpowering. This is another version of Earl Grey that would be great for a skeptic who doesn’t love bergamot. I certainly understand that skepticism. When I first tried an Earl Grey in 2006 and got sick, it was because of the bergamot flavor. (Side note: since I began writing this blog post, I decided to give that brand another try . . . but that’s a post for another day!) In both this blend and the Tea Market blend, you can taste the black tea and bergamot easily; neither overpowers the other.

    The Artful Tea approach to Earl Grey involves straight Yunnan tea rather than a blend of teas. In addition, like most blenders, it uses Italian bergamot. One of the things I noticed in my tasting was that sometimes bergamot tastes more toward the lemon end of the spectrum, and sometimes it tastes more orange. As someone who is more partial to lemon and less partial to orange, this is a blend that will have a regular place on my shelf. One of the things I should consider in future study is whether Italian bergamot has more lemon-related compounds than orange. 

    That being said, there are a number of factors that can influence the molecular structure of bergamot. Soil quality and climate conditions can have an effect on the fruits from year to year. We can’t just say Italian bergamot always tastes one way, Turkish always tastes another, and Greek a third way. There are no absolutes, and honestly, I think that’s lovely.

    By the Numbers

    As of this writing, I’ve tasted 8/100 Earl Grey teas. I need to taste 9 a month to stay on track, and with 10 days left to go in the month, that’s reasonable. I’m taking a little tasting break through the weekend to avoid boredom, and also to focus on the tasting homework for my tea sommelier training. (Yesterday I started sampling the delights from the Lunar New Year box from The Steeping Room, and today I am enjoying some samples from the My New Favorite Tea box.) 

    As far as categories go, I’ve sampled four classic Earl Greys, two Lady Greys, one Creme Earl Grey, and one special variation. I will elaborate more on those categories in future posts. My plan is to sample two more Lady Grey teas and have that be the focus of my next post. I’ll do my best to do four of the same category in each write-up, but I might not be able to do that if I want to stay consistent. We’ll see! If you have any recommendations for Earl Grey teas for me to sample, please leave a comment!

    Support the Project

    Enjoying this series? You can support my tea wish list here, or send me a DM on Instagram if you have samples you want to share! (I’m now realizing I don’t have a proper contact page on this site, but I’ll remedy that for the next post.)

    For more tea content, check out my tea pairings playlist on YouTube.

  • The Seasons of Tea

    The Seasons of Tea

    Tea is my favorite beverage, and I love the whole spectrum, from fresh, unadulterated loose-leaf tea brewed in a pot, to sweet, milky boba tea. Oolong is my favorite variety (I still remember the moment I had my first sip of ti kuan yin oolong). I was interested in the way tea shows up seasonally in haiku, and decided to make that the focus of a post.

    Tea does not appear as a kigo in Haiku World: An International Poetry Almanac, which is my guiding haiku text for 2022. However, there are many saijiki in the world, with different interpretations of the seasons. In The Five Hundred Essential Japanese Season Words (PDF), available from the Haiku Foundation, there are three entries that relate to tea:

    • tea picking (late spring)
    • new tea (early summer)
    • tea flowers (early winter)

    In Jane Reichhold’s A Dictionary of Haiku Classified by Season Words with Traditional and Modern Methods (PDF), also available from the Haiku Foundation, there are two entries that relate to tea:

    • tea garden (summer)
    • drinking tea (winter)

    Ultimately, I don’t agree that tea-drinking should be confined to the season of winter. Just as coffee drinkers take their beverage of choice hot even in the worst of summer, many committed tea drinkers take their tea hot all year long. In the examples I’ve come across so far, tea in general seems to be an all-year word, dependent on the context of the poem to connect it to the seasons.

    All Year

    Tea in a vintage floral cup
    Tea in one of my vintage floral cups

    swish of the whisk
    green foam clings
    to Mum’s tea bowl

    Lillian Nakamura Maguire, Haiku Canada Members’ Anthology, 2018

    While personally I associate green tea with spring (thanks to a former colleague of mine who believed it was best in spring), matcha can be consumed at any time of year. Not only that, but formal Japanese tea ceremonies take place throughout the year, meaning there is no specific season in which to consume matcha. For an in-depth overview of the ways in which tea ceremony changes throughout the year, check out Kaiseki: Zen Tastes in Japanese Cooking by Tsuji Kaichi.

    sipping turmeric tea
    grey curtains catch
    the wind

    Erica E. Benson, Haiku Pea Podcast, Series 5, Episode 6

    I initially wrestled a great deal with where to place this poem. Turmeric can be grown and harvested all year in temperate zones, and it’s not clear that the turmeric tea in this poem is from a fresh root; it could be dried turmeric, and thus could be consumed at any point in the year. In addition, wind happens throughout the year. As I did not feel there was an overpowering seasonal element, I chose to place this as an all-year poem.

    troubling dreams
    loose tea eludes
    the infuser

    Brad Bennett, Failed Haiku #76

    Brad Bennett’s senryu likewise doesn’t contain a clear seasonal element; tea in and of itself is not enough to serve as a kigo here. (I know that many people argue that senryu do not/should not contain seasonal words. I believe that kigo are appropriate to senryu. While they’re not mandatory, they can be a compelling element to the poem. I take a nod from Haiku World and incorporate senryu into this project, and note the seasons accordingly.)

    Spring

    first light. . .
    I sip birdsong
    with green tea

    Neena Singh, Haiku Pea Podcast, Series 5, Episode 6

    At first, I was torn between placing this as a spring or summer haiku. My instinct said spring, but early morning birdsong is common in summer as well; I’m thinking of the sparrow nest outside my studio window at my previous apartment. Jane Reichhold lists the word “birdsong,” as a spring kigo, so with her backing me up, I’m following my initial instinct and placing this haiku in the spring category. Note that the tea itself isn’t necessarily seasonal; it’s the birdsong that grounds this haiku in spring.

    Summer

    A glass of Moroccan mint tea next to a silver teapot, on a silver tray.
    Moroccan mint tea in the set that John brought me from Morocco!

    you bees
    may share my cup of tea
    I’ll grab another

    Ronald K. Craig, Haiku Pea Podcast, Series 5, Episode 10

    Bees connote summer, and thus the (presumably hot) tea is not being consumed in the winter. There’s no modifier indicating iced tea (and in the United States, at least, we’re more likely to say, “a glass of tea” when referring to the iced version of the beverage). Even the bees don’t mind hot tea on a warm day!

    Autumn

    As of this writing, I haven’t found any examples of tea haiku that are clearly grounded in autumn. However, that doesn’t mean they don’t exist! Please let me know if you find any.

    Winter

    A cup of black tea
    Black tea in one of my favorite cups.

    lavender tea
    before and after
    the first snow

    Hifsa Ashraf, First Frost #2

    The mention of snow is important in this haiku. Since the tea is lavender, a reader might initially place the poem in spring or early summer, if they assumed the tea was made with fresh flowers. In Hifsa Ashraf’s haiku, lavender tea could be seasonal, but the word “snow” overrides any seasonal associations that lavender might have.

    sea smoke rises
    from icy harbor
    I sip earl grey

    Pam Joy, Haiku Pea Podcast, Series 5, Episode 6

    Although Earl Grey tea could be enjoyed at any time of year, I find that the floral aspects of the blend create a spring connotation for me. However, that’s a personal association; I don’t think Earl Grey tea is inherently seasonal. Even if it was, the image of the “icy harbor” again grounds the poem in winter, regardless of what other season the tea might or might not suggest.

    froth on my green tea empty winter

    Alvin B. Cruz, Haiku Pea Podcast, Series 5, Episode 6

    Once more, the explicit mention of the winter season makes the setting for this poem undeniable. As I work through the tea-related haiku that I’ve collected so far, I can’t help but feel that tea is an all-year word, unless the context of the poem indicates otherwise.